Vol. 1 Issue 3

e-mail:  smockingstore@att.net

Garden Fairies Trading Company * P.O. Box 2596 * Clearlake, CA 95422
* 707-995-9337

Inside this issue:

1) We will beginning to look more into Smocking’s History - Bishops

2) Show and Share - A lovely simple hanger to make for our smocked projects

3) Pattern Review - Jamie by Yvonne Denise

Smocking History - More on Bishops

The bishop dress has had an interesting history as the style journeyed through the ages. We know the style that makes up the bishop as the raglan sleeve, as opposed to the set-in-sleeve of regular shirts and bodices. The evolution of the bishop begins with tracing it’s roots in those wonderful roomy undergarments called Chemises which usually showed underneath the over-garments of the Middle Ages through the Renaissance. The chemise was worn as the undershirt or dress beneath the outer clothing as well as being slept in. It was made from sheer fabrics, usually linen but could have been out of cotton for the upper classes and was either left plain or highly decorated depending on the mood of the wearer. The portrait from last issue and the one included in this issue shows a man wearing one of these highly decorated undergarments.

The concept of creating garments out of rectangles is a style which is very familiar to many of us oldsters who were “into” the Ethnic Garments Fashion Trend of the late 60’s through 70’s. If you will remember, (or not if you’re younger than me) in the late 60’s the Hi-Fashion designers such as Zandra Rhodes and Cathy Johnson introduced the mid-calf length maxi dress of 1967-68 as their reaction to the “don’t-you-dare-bend-over” short, short Mini dress of previous years. This style was inspired by the long vintage Edwardian White dresses, and long skirts that many of the ‘Hippie’ ladies wore in San Francisco and New York. As society responded to the creative upsurgence of the ‘Hippie’ movement of decorating your clothes with embroidered embellishments we were brought into the Ethnic influenced Nomad Dress or T-Dress as the perfect canvas for our decorations. This garment dominated the fashions of everyday people in the early 70’s as the style of long dresses was a blessing to thoses of us who either were too old to wear a mini or else, as often was the case, didn’t have the legs for mini skirts. While the mini skirt died a quick death (much to the dismay of ‘mankind’), the trend of creating “ethnic” style garments out of basic shape rectangles went way into the 80’s which such designers as Miranda Stewart, Vyonne Porcella and the pleats lady Lois Erickson as well as many of today’s quilted clothing designers.

Note: The company Folkwear patterns, by the way, made their mark on society’s style by drafting many ethnic patterns which sparked fashion trends throughout the 70’s and 80’s. In fact we could almost say that they greatly helped inspire the smocking and heirloom sewing movement with some of their patterns i.e. The English Smock, 1920’s Day Dress and the Edwardian Blouse and Wedding Gown and Christening Gown.

Also dominant in the fashion world were two magazines Handmade and Fiberarts, the latter still in print.

As you can see in the illustration below, the chemise is a simply constructed garment out of a group of rectangles which are put together based on your measurements. The construction of the chemise is very simple created out of rectangles based on your measurements.

The German Renaissance Painter Hans Holbien apparently loved smocking because most all of his paintings depicted the stitchery. (Or else it was all the rage of Germany during the Renaissance.) Interestingly all of the portraits that I have seen with the smocking are on men’s shirts, with the exception of Rembrandt’s portrait of his wife Sasha (but he’s in the Dutch School) which has not only smocking but is smocked with beads. (When I find a good reproduction of this painting that isn’t too dark to scan I will include it in a future issue.)

The peasant shirts or blouses that many of us are familiar with as Hungarian Blouses are based on this simple rectangle style. Folkwear produces a pattern called the Romanian Peasant Blouse which is very similar to the ones shown below.

Folkwear #103 Roumanian Peasant Blouse

In Elizabeth Travis Johnson’s The Book of Sewing For Children (out of print, sorry), she thoughtfully includes a section that she taught for years in her adult education smocking classes on constructing bishop dresses from rectangles with the addition of a neckline adjustment from the center of the garment to the back placket to take out the dip in the front of the dress.    It was fun to look and think about doing at but personally if you are a beginner I would recommend a pattern already made up with instructions.

Along with alterations to the sleeves, the hemline is the playground for imagination.  You can do all kinds of techniques to make it more interesting from heirloom sewing additions to a patchwork hemline or add in a ruffle.  Whatever the style that appeals to you will only enhance your beautiful smocking.

Many of today’s Smocking Designers came up with their own Bishop pattern. They include Grace Knott, Cameron Farr, Maggie’s Classics, Little Sunday Dresses, Briar Patch Designs, Children’s Corner, Chery Williams, Pat Garretson, and Ellen McCarn.

All of the above patterns are good ones but the reason why the Chery Williams’ Bishop pattern really took off was because of her full color pattern front, multi sized patterns and wonderful directions which appealed to so many women.

(For examples of the different styles of today’s contemporary bishop dresses see my website section on Bishop Patterns We Carry.)

Show and Share - Hanger from Australia

Here is a lovely hanger pattern and image that was submitted by Pamela Smith from Australia. Do hope that you enjoy it. Pam sent me the picture of her smocked nightie below and I was entranced with the lace on the hanger. I was told that she had adapted the hanger from a class that she had taken and was graciously sent the instructions and pattern which I am sharing with you.

Here is the nightgown, beautifully smocked and look at that bias - Satin!!!! Unlike here it seems that satin bias and satin piping are readily available in Australia and New Zealand. It adds a nice touch to see a satin with matte finished fabric.

This nightgown is a classic smocked design which can be recreated with a couple of patterns.  The first is by Grace Knott - GK Ladies Nightie

Here is a closeup of the hanger. It’s a pretty calico hanger with English lace to doll it up. You could make it in batiste with scalloped pintucks and fine embroidery if you like but this style is very pretty. A good way to use up scraps of your favorite fabrics.

Here is the pattern that you can print out

This pattern has been reduced, you can print it out and take to a copy store and enlarge it to the size that matches your hanger.

Directions for making up the hanger.

“Dear Beth-Katherine

Here are the instructions for the hanger.

These coat-hangers are great because the padding extends an inch or two past each end, so clothes sit well on them and don’t get pulled out of shape.

Use a rectangle of material approximately 55 cm by 16 cm (22 inches by 6 and a half inches), and a piece of wadding (sometimes called batting as used in quilts) the same size.

Cut four scallops along both long sides. I use a saucer. The end scallops are tapered to form more of a point. Using a zigzag, machine stitch pre-gathered lace edging around the entire edge of the outer material. Lace at least 4 cm (one and a half inch) wide looks best.

Pierce a small hole in the center of the material and the wadding for the hook. Put the wadding and then the outer material over the hook and fold in half over the coat-hanger. Match up the scalloped edge (just push the wadding out of the way) and join the two sides with another zigzag machine stitch along the top of the lace.

I then cover the hook with plastic tubing and tie a bow of narrow ribbon where it joins the coat-hanger.

Regards, Pamela Smith

Pattern Review Section:

Jamie - Sizes 6mo - 6 years by Yvonne Denise Designs, published by ABC Kids (Creative Smocking) $9.00

You have your choice of two basic styles suitable for girls or boys (or at least until your young man is still a toddler) with the smocking coming from a yoke or plain yoke with a smocked collar. Two choice of collars are offered. The first collar is a simple Peter Pan collar which is piped. On the boys style the sleeves are simple cap or straight sleeves on the girls a simple puff sleeve is edged with a bias same color as the collar, long or short sleeves are both included. The smocking comes from a high yoke and spreads out into roomy pants caught at the hem with self-fabric cuffs.

The smocked collar style is the simple basic smocked collar made with either the same fabric or a swiss edging that you apply onto the neckline either with a bias band or have it as an add-on collar with it’s own bias and closure. Of course you could use a more fancy smocked collar with lace insertion for a dressier look. The yoke extends to the waist with the pants gathered onto the yoke.  As you can see there are several real cute variations, View B would also appeal to a more tailored minded girl.

The directions for this pattern are clear, concise and with great illustrations. While each step is clear and detailed, unfortunately no smocking design is included with the pattern.

Yardage for these are based on 45″

 6mo   1 3/8 yards

12mo   1 1/2 yards

18mo   1 5/8 yards

24mo   1 5/8 yards

2      1 7/8 yards

3      2 yards

4      2 1/8 yards

5      2 3/8 yards

6      2 1/2 yards

 6mo   1 5/8 yards

12mo   1 3/4 yards

18mo   2 yards

24mo   2 yards

2      2 1/4 yards

3      2 3/8 yards

4      2 5/8 yards

5      2 3/4 yards

6      2 7/8 yards

6mo    1 3/4 yards

12mo   2 yards

18mo   2 1/4 yards

24mo   2 1/4 yards

2      2 1/2 yards

3      2 5/8 yards

4      2 7/8 yards

5      3 1/8 yards

6      3 1/4 yards

Vol. 1 Issue 1 * November 3, 1997 * Garden Fairies Trading Company, copyright
1997-2001

P.O. Box 2596 * Clearlake, CA   95422 * 707-995-9337

e-mail: smockingstore@att.net

Welcome to the first enhanced version of The Gathering Thread.

History of Smocking - continuation

The history of Smocking goes back in time through the ages in different guises.   It has evolved from a way to hold pleats together in a decorative way, to creating a shadow play of light and dark on fabric, to today’s gaily colored and decorated way of adding excitement to a garment as well as allowing the embroiderer a chance to create something beautiful to wear.   In this issue we are going to explore some of illustrations from early 20th century childrens’ literature which depicted smocking from the early 19th century.   You can learn a lot about the fashions of the time from the illustrations of literature and portraits of the times.   Usually though people wore their fancy garments for their portraits, not their ’slop-around-the house-or-garden-clothes’ so we don’t really get a true picture of what they actually wore but if you look closely enough you can get a glimpse into the everyday fashions of the times.

The reason why I like to look at old pictures, illustrations and portraits is to allow the images to spark my creativity for clothing designing.  My biggest complaint is that today’s fashions are designed for the ease of the mass production lines, not for what we like to wear.  Too many of the clothes that are offered are designed so that they can be cheaply and quickly made with profit as the guiding factor unlike the clothes of the past where fashion and trends were the motivating force.  This is not to say that fashion and trends don’t exist, of course they do but it is my sense that it is not the main motivating force that drives fashion today.   Clothing manufacturer’s creativity is controlled by production feasibility and cost analysis and often times compromises in a designer’s original idea are made to compensate.

Smocking is not like that.  We as creators of beautiful garments are in control.  We choose the materials, the pattern and the design to smock.  The final product is a result of our taste and choices, but there is still underlying it all the unconscious control of the ‘mass production’ consciousness.  It’s a hard one to let go of.  So it is in the hopes of sparking your creativity that I am offering these images to you, so that you will have to courage to let go of what has/is being done and move away from the carbon copy look and perhaps invent something new - let me know.

Smocking In Illustrations of Children’s Books

Illustrators of the early 20th century like Cicely Mary Barker (Flower Fairy Books), Henriette Willebeek Le Mair, Blanche Fisher Wright (The Real Mother Goose) (to name a few ) choose to portray children gaily clad in smocks because at that time of publication these were ‘old fashioned’ images of country life that depicted the times they wanted to show - more often than not late 18th early 19th century English country life.  Fairy tales and nursery rhymes are our connection to the past and so the illustrators wanted to show a more idyllic time and the country images of little boys in smocks fit the bill.

The smock is based on rectangles with little or no curves, one of the most simple designs to make as the armhole is given extra room by the addition of a diamond shaped gusset.  If you are interested in a pattern for a traditional smock I would recommend Folkwear’s #221 English Smock

Harvest Home The boughs do shake and the bells do ring, So merrily comes our harvest in, Our harvest in, our harvest in, So merrily comes our harvest in. We have ploughed, and we have sowed, have reaped, and we have mowed, We have brought home every load, Hip, hip, hip Harvest home! Illustration by Cicely Mary Baker Old Rhymes for All Times, copyright 1923

Here we see a farmer wearing his smock, with cap in one hand and tankard of ale in the other celebrating his harvest - the reaping of the growing season is done.  If you look carefully you can see the detail of the feather stitch along side panels of smocking.  This style of smock is known as the smock frock, a coat with buttons.  You would also see smocking on a panel on the back.  You can tell this is a contemporary version of a smock by looking at the collar, it is a small collar compared to the large collars of most smocks (extra width given for flipping over the head in the rain or sleet to protect the neck).  The smocking of the panels seems to be worked with the outline stitch every second or third row creating the puffing that you see.  These frocks with buttons were saved for special occasions as making buttonholes by hand takes time away from the chores of running a farm.  Mostly you would have a slit in the front fastened with a button with a loop or buttonhole.

The Deaf Old Woman "Old woman, old woman, wilt thee go a-shearing'?" "Sepak a little louder, sir, I'm very hard of hearin'." "Old woman, old woman, wilt thee go a-gleanin'?" "Speak a little louder, I canna tell the meanin'!" "Old woman, old woman, wilt thee go a-walkin'?" "Speak a little louder, or what's the use o' talkin'!" "Old woman, old woman, shall I kiss thee dearly?" "Thank you, kind sire, I hear you very clearly!" Illustration by Cicely Mary Barker - Old Rhymes For All Times, copyright 1923

This little charmer is wearing a round smock.  You can see the smocking on the front and back and cuffs.  The collar is a round collar opening in front.   Short pants worn underneath and probably a shirt are protected from a little boy’s romping by the smock. (I think the hat is adorable don’t you?)

About the Bush About the bush, Willie, About the bee-hive, About the bush, Willie, I'll meet thee alive. Then to my ten shillings Add you but a groat, I'll go to Newcastle And buy a new coat. Five and five shillings, Five and a crown; Five and five shillings will buy a new gown. Five and five shillings, Five and a groat; Five and five shillings Will buy a new coat. Illustration by Cicely Mary Barker - Old Rhymes For All Times, copyright 1923

Here we see “Willie” in a typical round smock.  The front panel, shoulders, top of the cuffs and back panel (trust me) are all smocked.  The collar is a typical smock collar, pointed at the front and back, much like today’s collars.  It has the addition of a pocket hidden under the flap and has slits up the sides for ease in walking.  I love the little doll she is holding, looks like a dress from the late 1700’s, perhaps French.

The Mayer's Song

We've been a-rambling all this night,

And sometime of this day;

 And now returning back again

We bring a branch of May.

A branch of May we bring you here,

And at your door it stands;

It is a sprout well budded out,

The work of the Lord's hands.

The hedges and trees they are so green,

As green as any leek;

enly Father, He watered them

With heavenly dew so sweet.

The Heavenly gates are open wide,

Our paths are beatn plain;

And if a man be not too far gone,

He may return again.

So dear, so dear as Christ loved us,

   And our sins was slain,

Christ bids us turn from wickedness

   Back to the Lord again.

The moon shines bright, the starts give a light,

A little before it is day,

So God bless you all, both great and small,

And send you a joyful May.

Illustration by Cicely Mary Barker -

Old Rhymes For All Times, copyright 1923

This adorable little boy is wearing a child’s smock of the 1920’s style rather than the traditional 1830’s smock.

How to reproduce.  It would be very easy to duplicate this design in any size garment.  For the starting pattern you would need a top pattern with a yoke (Vivian could be adapted for this … change the neckline of the pattern, or change the collar into a simple double pointed collar with lace on the edging.  Adding in a little insert of smocking, about 2 1/2″ to the blouse.

The collar is a small version of the round collar but what is unique about this smock is that it is closed in front with a small button and the smocking starts at chest level instead of coming from the yoke that is at the shoulders.  You will see this alot in 20’s fashions with the gathering eased into the yoke or else the shoulder seam  Dot to Dot smocking would be recommended with such a small space either to form the pleats or to just smock.

A simple button placket oe slir with one button closure.  You could also make a loop if you preferred.

Georgie Porgie

Georgie Porgie, pudding and pie,

Kissed the girls and made them cry;

When the boys came out to play,

Georgie Porgie ran away.

Illustration by Henriette Willebeek Le Mair

Our Old Nursery Rhymes, 1921

I do apologize for the lack of clarity on this illustration, it was very faint but I though you would be able to see the smocking and get a gist of the style.   This is in the round yoke style but adapted through the eyes of a 1920’s illustrator.  The collar is the typical round smock collar that is moving into a variation of a sailor collar, the smocking is a front panel and there are folded back cuffs (probably for digging clams).

This would be lovely as a ladies or little girls dress.   To reproduce this look have the smocking come from a medium high yoke, the smocking would be smocking only in the front center section (and also back if you like), make the neck opening a V in the yoke and work the two sides of the collar with whatever shape you like.